Few watches embody enduring style and technical refinement quite like the Rolex Datejust. Introduced in 1945, it has remained in continuous production for eight decades – a remarkable achievement in an industry defined by change. Across generations, the Datejust has evolved while retaining its unmistakable character, securing its place as one of the most recognizable watches ever created.

To celebrate its 80th anniversary, we explore five captivating details from its history – a blend of little-known origins, design milestones, and rare variations – that reveal why the Datejust remains an icon.
The story begins in 1945, when Rolex marked its 40th anniversary with a watch that would redefine wristwatch design. That debut Datejust was not just a technical achievement – it was a commemorative piece, the first self-winding wristwatch with a date display visible through an aperture on the dial. In that moment, Rolex created not only a new model, but also a blueprint for modern luxury replica watches. The inaugural run of just 100 watches, presented at Geneva’s Hotel des Bergues, featured unique case numbering and omitted the standard serial and reference engravings, making them especially prized among collectors today.

Curiously, “Datejust” was not the model’s original intended name. When reference 4467 launched, its dial bore no model designation at all – a detail that remained true well into the early 1950s. Only in 1953 did the word “Datejust” first appear beneath the Rolex coronet. In the brand’s archives, we find alternative names that were considered: “Ritedate” (registered by Rolex in October 1945) and even “Jubilee,” a nod to both the company’s anniversary and the bracelet that debuted alongside the model.
In its early years, the Datejust occupied the very top of Rolex’s catalog. Before the Day-Date or the Daytona claimed that mantle, the Datejust was the flagship, crafted exclusively in precious metals and paired with the newly designed Jubilee bracelet. Two-tone steel-and-gold editions would follow in the early 1950s, and by 1953, the first all-steel Datejust, reference 6305, marked the model’s shift toward broader accessibility while preserving its prestige. The Day-Date, launched in 1956, can be seen as a direct evolution – expanding the Datejust’s pioneering combination of elegance, mechanical innovation, and status appeal.
Reference 6305 was also pivotal in shaping the Datejust’s signature look. It introduced the now-iconic fluted bezel – its bold, architectural ridges replacing the finer “reeded” style found on earlier models. That same era brought one of Rolex’s most divisive design elements: the Cyclops magnification lens. Added to the crystal to enlarge the date display, it quickly became a hallmark of the brand. Meanwhile, advances in movement design, such as the slimmer automatic caliber 1065, eliminated the need for the protruding “bubble back” case, giving the watch a sleeker profile. By the late 1950s, the model had adopted the pencil-style hands still used on many replica Rolex watches today.
Among the Datejust’s many dial variations, few are as intriguing to collectors as the so-called “no-lume” dials. While most examples carried luminous material on both the hands and hour markers – first radium, later tritium, and eventually LumiNova – certain markets prohibited the import of radioactive materials. To meet these regulations, Rolex produced dials without lume plots and fitted them with solid hands. Many of these pieces were destined for Japan, giving rise to the “Japan dial” nickname. In an ironic twist, some still bear the “T Swiss T” marking for tritium, despite having none present at all.

Eighty years on, the Rolex Datejust remains a study in balance – timeless yet modern, refined yet practical, instantly recognizable yet endlessly varied. Beneath its familiar silhouette lies a rich history of subtle evolution, quiet innovation, and an enduring commitment to excellence. It is not merely a watch, but a symbol of Rolex’s ability to adapt without losing sight of what makes its creations truly exceptional.